»art«

PARIS, January 22, 2007
What psychological process did it take to lift John Galliano to the extraordinary place of brilliance he reached—or rather, rediscovered—in his spring couture? Everything about the Dior collection—inspired, he said, “by Pinkerton’s affair with Cio-Cio San, Madame Butterfly”—reconfirmed his unique talent to evoke beauty, sensitivity, narrative, and emotion in a fashion show...
read the full review on style.com



Als Haute Couture [ot kuˈtyːr] (französisch für "gehobene Schneiderei") werden heute, im Gegensatz zu Prêt-à-porter, die exquisiten, maßgeschneiderten Kreationen großer Modehäuser bezeichnet. Anders als früher werden Haute-Couture-Modelle nur noch selten verkauft, da die handgefertigten Roben enorm teuer sind. Die meisten Häuser haben deshalb auch ihre Haute Couture Linien abgeschafft, da sie vorwiegend Unsummen verschlingen und nur wenig einbringen. Dabei ist sie doch die Paradedisziplin. Was aber auch ein Beherrschen des großen Handwerks voraussetzt.
Es gibt drei Kriterien die man erfüllen muss, um zur Haute Couture zu gehören. Diese Punkte werden jedes Jahr neu überprüft. Die Designer müssen sich jedes Jahr neu bewerben. Das Modelabel muss mind. 15 Beschäftigte haben. Die Mode muss in Paris präsentiert werden und der Designer muss 25 unterschiedliche Modelle kreiert haben.

In der Dezember-Ausgabe der BrandEins gab es einen aufschlussreichen Artikel über Chanel und die Haute Couture. Zu lesen hier

Na das war ein Silvester, wie es Weimar schon lange nicht mehr gesehen hatte, boring. Und das obwohl ich extra noch die rote Unterwäsche rausgekramt hatte. Nach italienischem Brauch sollte das nämlich Glück bringen. Gott sei Dank hatte ich noch einige Folgen mit Dr. Jack zu Hause und halbvolle (uuuh, optimistisch!) Becher mit lecker Aldi-Eis, das schmeckt wie Häagen Dasz. Das kann doch nur ein Superjahr werden, auf jeden Fall nur besser.

Zur Aufmunterung bin ich auf eine tolle Seite von einer sehr amüsanten Künstlerin gestoßen. Sie nennt sich Fourteen und malt hinreißende Bilder.



gallery of the absurd

Besides this I tried to work on a piece about the so-called indieuniform. Cause a lot of people look the same every year. But actually the kind of style has changed over the last 5 years. Back in 2002 when we did our first documentary for the Festival all the indie kids wore flared jeans, track jackets and into-the-face-combed-hair. But this year - and it already kind of started last year - a new style has risen: Main color is black. Sure. With hair, too. Also boys dye their hair. Kind of messy hair style for some or - en contraire - really exact cuts (have a look at Karen O.'s current haircut). Skinny, slim pants. Really tight. Mainly black. Combined with black sweater of any kind, fitted. Or a striped shirt as well. On top a black leather jacket - blouson or biker-style. And shoes: hi-top chucks - any color, vans slip-ons or as a *special*: pointed black bootees, quite tight, for guys and more loose bootees with reaped bootlegs merely in white - altogether very 80s.

Bad news first: it looks like that the rumors about miuccia prada doing a collection in collaboration with H&M went down for nothing in the end. That sucks.
In an interview with the New York Magazine she answered the question:

What about all these rumors about your working with H&M?
They’ve asked me. I always said no, not because I don’t like the idea, I just don’t like the idea of doing bad copies of what I’m doing. And I don’t have the time, and maybe even the ability, to do a collection with them. If you want to do a collection that costs less, you have to do it with different materials and different ideas.
Why do other people do it?
I don’t know. Because of course they’re attracted by the fame you can get. Just because you want to do something new that people talk about. I don’t know how much real interest there is in doing fashion that is not expensive but is creative.

Well. That's a pitty, isn't it? But maybe there's also a good point in it. I think, we have to respect that she doesn't want to trade quality for affordability. But... you know.

The good news: From April 19 till May 31 there will an exhibition at her Soho-Store in NYC.
"Waist Down - Skirts by Miuccia Prada"
It's more an installation and it tries to draw on the thin line between fashion and art. Which is good. I like that. And I wish I could see it.
The installation was highly successful when it showed last year in Tokyo and Shanghai. It features more than 200 skirts by Miuccia Prada... animated. In the Tokyo exhibition, skirts twirled, glowed, cast funny shadows, spread open like giant jellyfish. The Soho show will be similar, with some new displays. (Source: fashionologie.com)
If you're interessted in further information you should read this article in WWD which is about her exhibition in Shanghai.